Відео

Without a relay to protect the switch... won't the 20amp switch burn sooner or later due to the several times you crank the engine/starter with the car 100amp battery (for example)? (great video, thanks!)

Just wanted to thank you for putting together such a great video. One of the best I’ve seen.

The guy that had this kit and the real bunny kit, he ditched the rear for the fake one cus it actually fitted better than the bunny did lol

can a ground be shorted?

Hello Chris - have you got letter referencing for Hella relays? I have a P and an S on my headlight washer relay which I know is not working but would like to remove the cover and test. and have the facility to do it in the future. I have the European DIN chart numbers from 1 to 88 and the wiring colour codes for European DIN standard. There is a 72 page pdf file on Hella relays by Hella but not letters P or S. Thanks.

This is the first video that didn't take the frame apart.

thank you for being easy to understand. i struggle with electrical but you make it seem easy. my 86 300zx thanks you

I have watched a couple of dozen videos explaining relays and I was stilled confused. Your explanation cleared it all out. Great Job! I have subscribed to your channel to see what else I will learn. Thanks for taking the time to break it down so well.

You call people dumb and stupid. Do you realize that most people are first time learners just stumbling onto a video while learning this stuff? How is this some kind of argument in your head that you feel you are arguing with people who are simply watching a video? Makes no sense. That's all in your head. What a crappy way to look at learning.

What is bad about jumping 30 to 87 to get car to start ?

Excuse me but how do you call the system of a car that uses this kind of circuit? Is it a car with positive ground or negative ground circuitry? Thanks!

Really glad I came across your channel man I also have a 1302 running strong and plan to build some fun stuff

Great video, thanks

Thank you so much for this! just got a 70 cutlass and was needing a video like this!! This has helped me more than you know!

Do have any i can buy ?

Why does that PURPLE wire look like BLACK 🤣🤣🤣

Sir, I am your subscriber from Indonesia, I want to consult with you, does the worm steer have something called a TORQUE ROD? What is its function actually? Because I have a Worm Steer for an Isuzu Trooper Diesel car where my steer is already heavy and I have replaced the Seal Kit but it is still heavy, the information I got had to be checked on the TORQUE RODS and the TORQUE RODS were modified using a lathe so they are usually lighter Turn the steering wheel of the car. So far this has not been discussed with you. function and use of automotive tubes. ? Thank you, I'm waiting for the answer

Check your gas that your gauge is working properly before installing completely. Removing lever up and down and watching the gauge

How would you add a push button to start while still using the key switch to access accessory and initiate the on position on a 89' Chevrolet Silverado pickup truck

Good explanation. Good drawings. 👍🏾

Music is so distracting had to exit.

What if the capacitor was Bad? When you discharged it there should’ve been a small spark…

I'm impressed --- good work!

So all you do is cut the purple wire then you just put both ends on the kill switch and it works

is it ok to put the switch at the negative? making it a negative switch?

Have to agree with everyone here commenting, your explanation is spot on bro, I actually learned something here with the ability to replicate it. Cheers to you!

How much amp is your alternator 75A? also is it OEM?

Got the engine running after a few days of fiddling with it…. Then it threw a rod. Win some lose some I guess

wish you were closer to where I live its hard to find anyone that knows about these Bugs. I just paid $430 to an old guy to put an alternator on the next week he died and so did the alternator had to buy another on didnt know where he got the other one. I am in Ohio

Thank you, Great video

Great video, I like your narration style.

I've got a 2006 rubicon with a six speed manual

It didn't drop at 1 cyl

Nice job being curious how the sender works with the gauge. If you would have measured the resistance of the sender after you bent the full, float up tab, you would have found that you changed the full resistance! Probably about 5 or less ohms not the 10 ohms that is designed for the fuel sender. All you have accomplished is making the gauge go to full, but 1/2, 1/4 and R will not be correct! E will be close. Sadly the vendors and mfg of the Aftermarket gauge have not changed the voltage of the regulator. It needs to be at <>6.4 vdc to work properly. The resistance of the sender should be: 10 ohms for F, 20 for 1/2, 33 for 1/4 45 for R and 70 for E.. Each of those numbers can be off by a bit, as you can see that 10 to 20 is for a Full to 1/2 tank... R 45 to 70 for E..

You have stumbled into the worst issue that aftermarket parts for a 69 and up VW, any type, has occurred! You showed exactly what the issue is... OEM gauge has a way lower resistance that the aftermarket gauge! The only way to make the aftermarket gauge work is to increase the voltage at the input to the gauge! As you show, 5.1 will not make the aftermarket gauge swing to full.. All VW senders, any type, Std Beetle, Super, Gia, Buses, Things, will be around 10 ohms at full and around 70 for empty. 10 ohms F, 20 1/2, 33 1/4 47 R and 70 for E The OEM vibrator nor the aftermarket plastic/metal called a vibrator is not a vibrator it is a regulator. Good job at being curious how the gauge system works... BTW, the OEM gauge you measured resistance was <>13... It should be about 18. From my experience this means that the gauge nichrome wire has partially shorted, reduced resistance. This is usually caused by shorting the sender wire to ground/chassis to see if the gauge will read full! One should not leave that wire shorted more than about 5 seconds! Here is one of my videos showing your issue. My sender is for a Beetle but the residences are the same. You will see from my video exactly what you were seeing. The only resolution we have right now to fix the low fuel reading is to raise that voltage. I have tried to make the vendors that sell these things to go after the manufacturers.. Also have an engineering friend in Sweden that has been in communications with the mfg of the gauge and the senders! They are non responsive. Here is one of my videos showing the same issue you showed: ua-cam.com/video/BGv18l_uJJY/v-deo.htmlsi=FQZzzNF5zsMJxImJ Here is an explanation for the operation of the vibrator. ua-cam.com/video/29I3oeVjWHI/v-deo.htmlsi=ubTqihk9K0tbn3h0&t=214 Jim.

Because you enjoy self-abuse?

Awesome video Brother.. Thank You

those delphi pumps any good? I see lots of mixed reviews.

what's that big brick with the heatsink next to the engine? a 12V - 120V AC inverter?

get a used Fuel pump, from the junker, gm original is probably the best bet.

What a great demo!

We don't need no stinking relay, that's what they make JUMPER CABLES for 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🥰

Just have no idea why it don't have 12v from key on acc

Nice work! Little elbow grease saved you some money. That steel wool you used is called "4 ought" or "3 ought", depending on how many zero's there are.

Phenomenal explanation

I have a 1977 280z but my Black fusible link keeps on getting hot as the revs go higher. Could this method solve that issue, or do you have any other suggestions ? thanks

I am replacing the existing CFL can lights in my kitchen. If I use the remodel can, once I insert it into the ceiling opening, I will not have access to the junction box because this is a two story house and the fixtures I am replacing are on the bottom floor and I have no attic. Can I wire it up before I stick the can into the ceiling, otherwise, the junction box will be inaccessible.

I work building OFF RIDGE VENTS and I can't tell you how many times people come in bitching about those tiny ridge vents. Get yourself the OFF RIDGE VENTS. They circulate more air than those tiny ridge vents.

Excellent video. Finally I understand grounding on the car. Cheers.

You did quite well... just repaired my '85 driver side vent window lock, but without a single new or replacement part... simply because they are hard to get here and if then very expensive here in the European communist Union superstate!! I re-designed and re-created the outer and inner seal and added a piece of thin tubing over the center of the outer bolt, so that no metal comes in direct contact with the glass plate. The seals are now made of inner tube rubber and seal firmly onto the glass and I added a half hard plastic ring on the inside to give more surface pressure on the glass and a firmer solid lock of the protruding bolt, this helps prevent the complete inner core from rotating when someone tries to unlock the window forcefully without first pushing well on the unlock button in the middle... in fact that is the mistake you made... you used force to open the latch but did not push enough on the unlock button, which in result caused the entire inner part to rotate and actually undoes, weakens and loosens the actual locking action one may hope for. Since the latch was also rotating very poorly around the center piece, I cleaned and lightly coated the inner works with copper grease to assure a lifetime hassle free operation... this may cause some greasy fingers the first few times, but after a couple of wipe offs we're all good. I will have to do the same job on the passenger side of my '85 Blazer and will video record and share how to do it. That one in addition has the lower pivot bolt with spring etc snapped off, so that is an additional challenge, but we'll get there... I hope!